Frybread to die for

Despite rise in diabetes, many Navajos demand fatty favorites

By Natasha Kaye Johnson
Diné Bureau

WINDOW ROCK — People just can't get enough of fatty foods at the Indian Marketplace in Window Rock.

And with type 2 diabetes on the rise, this isn't helping. According to the Assistant Surgeon General, Director of Indian Health Service Charles W. Grimm, D.D.S., M.H.S.A., American Indians and Alaska Natives are more than four times more likely to die from diabetes than the rest of the United States.

"The 'traditional foods' have changed a lot," said Larry King, a member of the Navajo Nation who currently resides in Farmington. On his days off, King said he sometimes takes the Navajo Transit to Window Rock and spends the day biking at the capital and enjoying the sights of the Navajo Nation.

King, originally from Red Cove Valley, said he went to the Indian Marketplace in Window Rock to get something to eat, but saw that it was just "big chunks of fat." With this, King decided to pass on the food selection at the Indian Marketplace.

King, who is 52, is more health conscious than people who are regular customers at the Indian Marketplace. Vendors don't usually have customers like King, who request and want healthy food items on the menu. Instead, they want fatty foods literally.

"They don't ask for salad or anything," said Sadine Dooline, who operates Ed's Cafe in the Indian Marketplace. Dooline, who is diabetic, started making healthier food decisions in her personal life, and then started applying the same healthy concepts into her food vending about fifteen years ago. But it didn't help out with her business.

Dooline said she often has customers who ask that the fat not be removed from their meat or stew. She also said that some customers ask that their burgers not be included with salad, tomatoes, or any type of vegetable.

"They want it; so we serve it like that," she said.

The Navajo Nation Special Diabetes Project has attempted to educate potential food vendors about healthy foods and healthy ways of cooking. As part of their program, they attend food handlers meetings where they talk to vendors about diabetes and how they can help in its prevention. The primary reason they attend is to encourage vendors to have healthier food options available.

Dr. Marie Allen, Community Health Nurse for the NNSDP said that there have been some healthy changes made with food vendors. One of these changes she mentioned was the addition of tortillas as an option opposed to only frybread.

"We encourage them (vendors) to pay attention to diabetic diets," said Allen. Allen said that vendors listen and appreciate the information, but putting it into effect is different. "It's still up to the vendors (what they want to serve)," said Allen.

Although attempts have been made by some vendors to implement healthier options, it just doesn't do well for business.

Dooline said she has tried using healthier forms of oil in the past, such as canola oil or vegetable oil for frybread, but her customers complain about the taste.

"They don't like the other kind (of grease) ," said Dooline. "They (customers) just ask for fatty stuff," she said. With this, Dooline only uses lard to cook her frybread, since that is what sells well.

She also tried draining extra grease from burgers, but said people complained and questioned if the meat was old.

"They would say that it doesn't taste right, " said Dooline.

Still, Dooline has food prepareres remove the grease from the stew and stand frybread upright to drain excessive grease to at least help eliminate some fat. Dooline said while a large majority of her customers seek fatty foods, she does have customers who select healthier items.

She said that she notices it when customers order tortillas instead of frybread, and select diet coke over regular. She said these are usually the same people who request extra vegetables as well.

"Some just want corn and vegetables," said Dooline. She said they do accommodate customers with extra vegetables if requested. Dooline said more people are also purchasing diet soda, which has caused them to stock up on more diet beverages.

While some people have made these changes, convincing the majority of people to change to a healthier lifestyle by selecting more nutritious foods continues to be a challenge.

"I think people will come around," said Allen. "Any kind of change takes time."